Author Topic: Replacing Heating timer with Secure SSR303  (Read 901 times)

Offline thetwc

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Replacing Heating timer with Secure SSR303
« on: November 05, 2018, 03:42:45 am »
I am still trying to spread the love of Home Automation, dragging my neighbours in slowly and surely.  I am having problems with converting a UK boiler heating system to Vera control.  Can anyone help me with the spot the issue?

The house had a Drayton Lifestyle LP522 Hot water and Heating timer installed.  This is wired to a 3 way valve to demand either hot water, heating, or both.  This all works properly and without issue that i can see. 

After checking the wiring diagrams for the LP522 and the Secure SSR302, they were identical so i unclipped the LP522 and clipped on the SSR302, job done.  I thought. 

On manual and Vera control, the water relay seems to fire the boiler and move the 3-way valve.  The Heating relay also clicks and moves the 3-way to the mid way position when they are both on.  When the heating is on it's own though, the valve doesn't move to Heating only so doesn't work.

The relay is clicking so it shouldn't be faulty, and the valve gets a signal to move so surely the wiring isn't dodgy (and it works with the old timer).  Any ideas why it's not working or what i can try?

Thank you. 
1600's Thatched Cottage in the UK tricked out with Veras, RFx, and 30+ devices.  Homewave devotee.
Lite on UI5.  (1.5.672)   |   Edge on UI7

Offline RichDC

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Re: Replacing Heating timer with Secure SSR303
« Reply #1 on: November 05, 2018, 02:57:56 pm »
The only way to be sure, is to test that you have 230V leaving the heating output from the ssr302.

Unless..... your wall stat isn't made? The live normally goes from the controller/programmer to a junction box then, to the stat and finally the valve.

Offline thetwc

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Re: Replacing Heating timer with Secure SSR303
« Reply #2 on: November 06, 2018, 04:39:37 am »
Thank you.  I'll check the outputs to make sure it is getting a full 230v.

There's no room stat in the house as it's connected to a Stanley oil range/cooker (like an AGA), so the timer clock is the only control to initiate the heating or hot water. 

The timer clock wiring does the go to a "distribution board" box with a load of chocolate block connectors, then onto the 3way valve. 

The only thing i have noticed is that there is no connection from the LP522 timer to the distribution box for a Heating Off live.  I guess this shouldn't be need to move the 3way valve to Heating which seems to be the issue. 

Thank you
1600's Thatched Cottage in the UK tricked out with Veras, RFx, and 30+ devices.  Homewave devotee.
Lite on UI5.  (1.5.672)   |   Edge on UI7