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Author Topic: I replaced a Porch Light Switch with a GE/Jasco #45609 Switch. Does Not Work!  (Read 4672 times)

Offline jlrsn

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My first try in replacing a Simple Porch Light On/Off Switch with initially a GE/Jasco ON/OFF Switch #45609 and then a GE ON/OFF Light Switch #45637 does not work!  To begin this house was wired to where I had a Hot Wire from the Circuit Breaker to the Porch Light ON/OFF Switch with the Circuit then going to the Porch Light. I followed the GE/Jasco ON/OFF Relay Switch 45609 wiring diagram exactly. When I powered up the switch, still nothing to do with Z-Wave, the Blue Indicator Lit Up when the Switch is Switched On or Held On the outside light and the the Blue Indicator flash ON and OFF.  I have replaced or installed hundreds of switches in both new and existing buildings, both one way and three way, etc, in the last 60 years. My dad was a General Contractor. I have never installed a Z-Wave Switch. As shown on the GE/Jasco ON/OFF Relay Switch 45609 wiring diagram, I jumped the neutral with the Load with one leg going to the Switch Neutral Connection and the other leg going to the Switch Load Connection. The  GE/Jasco ON/OFF Relay Switch #45609 Instructions state that the Switch can be used by itself as a 2-way ON/OFF Control Switch. What am I doing wrong?

Offline Z-Waver

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You cannot "jump the neutral with the load". The GE/Jasco 45609 requires a neutral wire. It sounds like you either don;t have one, or have not yet found the neutral bundle commonly found in the back of switch gang boxes.

If you don't have a proper neutral, the 45609 will NOT work.

Attached is a diagram for 3-way installation. Just ignore the Aux/Remote.

Offline BulldogLowell

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If it's a 3way GE switch, you may need to jump the neutral with the traveller if retrofitting a single pole switch?


Offline jlrsn

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Z-Waver,
This house was built 12 years ago and for a light circuit it was common then up here in the Rockies at 8,000' to not have a neutral wire.  Basically the hot wire was controlled by a simple switch that cut the circuit. I know that in my house in California the Electrical Codes are much more stringent in line with the National Electrical Code.  Up here at 1 1/2 hours from the closest stop light the wiring in this house is surprisingly better than most. I know the licensed Electrical Contractor who wired this house and it doesn't meet the current National Fire Protection Association Standards but from what I can see it is wired safely, with no hidden junction boxes, with no splices outside of junction boxes. with ground wires at every junction boxes. It has neutral wiring to all the outlets and  GFCI outlets as required by the National Electrical Code. At least it isn't open wiring from ceramic insulators like I find in some of the 100 plus year old homes!  I noticed that Bulldoglowell just posted a possible fix.  Thanks for your input Z-Waver!!



Offline jlrsn

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Bulldoglowell,
You gave me hope!!  I can live without this Porch Light being controlled by my Z-Wave and I'll have to open some of the 3-Way Lighting Junction Boxes tomorrow and see what awaits me.  Thanks for your Input!!
Jim

Offline jeff3lo

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My response is half suggestion and half question:

How about using a GE/Jasco Dimmer switch?  I notice dimmer module doesn't require a neutral while an On/Off module does.  If you can switch the bulb to a dimmable bulb perhaps you can wire without a neutral?

Offline adwaitjoshi

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Did you end up having a solution for your ZWave switch? I wired mine yesterday and it doesnt work. I did have a white common wire entangled in the electric box, which I took out of the group and wired to the switch. The blue LED doesnt light up at all and ofcourse the switch doesnt work. Dont know what I can do at this time.

Offline Z-Waver

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Did you end up having a solution for your ZWave switch? I wired mine yesterday and it doesnt work. I did have a white common wire entangled in the electric box, which I took out of the group and wired to the switch. The blue LED doesnt light up at all and ofcourse the switch doesnt work. Dont know what I can do at this time.
It sounds like you removed an existing white from the bundle and connected it directly to the 45609? This will not work!

What you should have done is added an additional white from the 45609 to the bundle. All the original whites need to stay in the bundle and then add the 45609 as well. For example, if the white bundle originally had 3 white wires in it, after the 45609 is installed, the bundle should then have a 4th white from the 45609 to the bundle.