0-10v Dimming

[northdesign]

I'm working on integrating z-wave into my office and looking at a number of commercial LED fixtures.

A lot of commercial LED and quality home lighting uses 0-10v ballast controlled dimming (controlled via a grey and purple control wire). As I understand it this is a current sink that controls the ballast by modulating the 0-10v signal. Some commercial 0-10v dimmers have a built in power relay that controls the line voltage (the on and off), and the separate 0-10v control wires to control the dim level. Other commercial set ups use a separate relay and 0-10v controllers for switching and dimming.

Is there anything like this in the Z-wave world?

Closest thing I found is the Insteon Ballast Dimmer. I bought one but performance hasn't been as reliable as my z-wave stuff through Vera. Also this device is a controller only and not wall hardware meaning I would only be able to turn my 0-10v lights on using software or a scene controller and not a wall switch. Finally adding and removing Insteon devices in Vera so far has not been very intuitive or reliable. Sometimes it shows up and sometimes it doesn't.

Any point in the right direction would be much appreciated.

[Z-Waver]

There use to be an Act ZDF110 that did this 10VDC dimming, but I'm pretty sure they are discontinued.

I think you're out of luck for a current Z-Wave device.

[northdesign]

After some homework, I think I found the work around.

Lutron makes a device called a GRX-TVI Control Interface. It takes the signal from a standard wall dimmer and converts it to a 0-10v signal and line voltage relay for controlling 0-10v ballasts. Looks like it works with standard Lutron Maestro wall dimmers so it should work with most standard z-wave dimmers. I'm going to buy one and test it with a AspireRF z-wave dimmer and post the results. Unfortunately it looks like it will add about $160 to every 0-10v dimmed LED circuit I want to control.

[northdesign]

I received a Lutron GRX-TVI tonight and tested it with a couple of different z-wave dimmers, the AspireRF All Load Dimmer and the Linear WD500Z-1 Incandescent Dimmer. It worked as advertised with both and I was able to switch and dim my 0-10v fixtures with it. It's big and you can hear the relay click when turned on and off so it needs a good hiding place.

[Z-Waver]

Thanks for reporting back. It is an expensive option, but sometimes you "gotta do what you gotta do".

[strips]

Interesting solution

Thanks for the tip. I might have to do something like this one day.

Too bad there is not cheaper solution. There should be a market for 10V control today. It would be the best way to move the power-electronics / transformers/dimmers closer to the actual lighting.

Are you still using this solution or have you found a better one?

[brandoncreel]

DMX is the way to go and superior but doesn't really work with zwave, yet


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[a-lurker]

DMX is good for theaters and the like but have a look at DALI as well. DALI does groups, scenes and dimming but is costly per light. However with LED lighting taking over, it has had a revival with DALI drivers for LED downlights (typically constant current devices) and LED strips 12/24V (constant Voltage) now available. 0-10V is a fairly simplistic technology and therefore somewhat limited.

Cost is clearly a driving factor but replacing your Halogens with LEDs could reduce your 600 Watts or so to say 120W for the LEDs, it may make sense long term. Especially if you have individual control of every light and dim them to say 50% - that's 60Watts. Plus the saving on cooling in summer. Should I mention climate change as well?

[strips]

DMX is good for theaters and the like but have a look at DALI as well. DALI does groups, scenes and dimming but is costly per light. However with LED lighting taking over, it has had a revival with DALI drivers for LED downlights (typically constant current devices) and LED strips 12/24V (constant Voltage) now available. 0-10V is a fairly simplistic technology and therefore somewhat limited.

Cost is clearly a driving factor but replacing your Halogens with LEDs could reduce your 600 Watts or so to say 120W for the LEDs, it may make sense long term. Especially if you have individual control of every light and dim them to say 50% - that's 60Watts. Plus the saving on cooling in summer. Should I mention climate change as well?

I actually have multiple DALI/DSI dimming transformers only using switchDIM to keep them in sync. I'm looking to replace them so I can go wireless with z-wave but need to have a reliable way to have them in sync by single paddle and association. Want en to continue to work even if Vera goes down. Difficult to find a solution other than to buy and start trying.

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