Author Topic: Help! Linear Iris GD00Z Garage Door Controller Shows Open but Door is Closed?  (Read 10335 times)

Offline BOFH

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Do those camera's have motion detectors? If so, could it be that somehow those were mistaken for the door sensors by Vera?
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Offline Ostrichsak

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Do those camera's have motion detectors? If so, could it be that somehow those were mistaken for the door sensors by Vera?

The cameras themselves have motion sensors that are currently disabled.  Also, the error messages said that the device itself wasn't detected.  When you go into advanced settings it didn't show the make or model of the device.  These are the two fields that I manually entered but I only did for one of the two cameras I have set up on the VeraLite so I don't think that was the fix but I can't know for sure since that's the only change I made.  I assumed if it would correct the problem that it would only correct the one I adjusted and I would know to adjust the 2nd one but that never happened.  None of it make sense to me really but it's currently working.  I'm glad it's working but the fact that it 'fixed' itself after weeks tells me that it can also 'break' itself at any point too and that's not very confidence inspiring.

Offline rstrouse

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Is your tilt sensor mounted behind a car by chance or is mounted high on the door?  I put mine in the middle of the door between the cars so that it wouldn't have interference from a car parked in front of it and mounted the unit offset from the bar and chain on the ceiling.  I wonder if the tilt sensor looses connection if it sends a signal when it reconnects.
1xVera3 1.7.619, 4xLinear WT00Z, 3xLinear WS15Z, 1xLeviton VRCZ4, 10xCooper RF9540, 1xLeviton VRFI10, 1xLeviton VP00R, 2xLinear GD00Z-4, 1xGE/Jasco 45612, 1xGE/Jasco 45610,  4xGE/Jasco 45605, 2xYale YRD220-ZW-619, 1xCaddx NX584, Autelis Intellitouch Pool Control, OpenSprinkler

Offline Ostrichsak

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Is your tilt sensor mounted behind a car by chance or is mounted high on the door?  I put mine in the middle of the door between the cars so that it wouldn't have interference from a car parked in front of it and mounted the unit offset from the bar and chain on the ceiling.  I wonder if the tilt sensor looses connection if it sends a signal when it reconnects.

The tilt sensors are mounted up high in the center of each door.  The controller is mounted next to the opener so it's not dead center so there really shouldn't be any obstruction with radio communication since both are pretty much line of sight.  As for losing communication and then re-connecting... I don't think so as the title sensors I had installed previously went into 'sleep' mode to conserve battery life and then had a brief delay as they 'woke up' before sending a state change signal.  I would assume that these are the same but don't know for sure.  Either way coms shouldn't be a concern with this setup so even if they did I don't think they're losing signal at any point.

Offline Hottoy

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Did anyone resolve this issue.   I just installed a GD00Z and it is acting up in a similar fashion.   Running U7

Offline Ostrichsak

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Did anyone resolve this issue.   I just installed a GD00Z and it is acting up in a similar fashion.   Running U7

Nope.  I haven't got any resolution.  Sometimes it seems to work itself out and then it has issues again so it's intermittent for me.  Where are you located?  Are you someplace where it gets cold by chance?

Offline rstrouse

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You should make sure the tilt sensor is actually on.  There is a little button inside the sensor that disables the power when it is opened.  To test this take it off your door then watch your Vera.  When the sensor is flipped on its back the interface should show that the door is open.  If you flip it face down then it should show that the door is closed.  All of this should occur within several seconds of flipping the sensor.

Also, did you get it paired correctly?  I seem to recall when I did mine it went through the whole nonce security class thingy.  I had to wait while it shared the security keys with Vera and ultimately configured the device.  I actually paired both of them before I mounted them but that doesn't mean that it can't be done with them installed.  It just means that you need to be patient and let Vera and the opener talk amongst themselves for a while as they get their secret codes worked out.  If you pair them by moving the Vera the lights will do all their flashing but it will still not be done.  This can take several minutes to work out.

All that being said I guess I don't really know what you mean by "acting up."  Is the door operating but reporting incorrectly?  Is it intermittent perhaps being affected by the cold?  Or is it just giving you the finger and doing nothing?  We did hit 35F last night and no problems to report with mine.
1xVera3 1.7.619, 4xLinear WT00Z, 3xLinear WS15Z, 1xLeviton VRCZ4, 10xCooper RF9540, 1xLeviton VRFI10, 1xLeviton VP00R, 2xLinear GD00Z-4, 1xGE/Jasco 45612, 1xGE/Jasco 45610,  4xGE/Jasco 45605, 2xYale YRD220-ZW-619, 1xCaddx NX584, Autelis Intellitouch Pool Control, OpenSprinkler

Offline Ostrichsak

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You should make sure the tilt sensor is actually on.  There is a little button inside the sensor that disables the power when it is opened.  To test this take it off your door then watch your Vera.  When the sensor is flipped on its back the interface should show that the door is open.  If you flip it face down then it should show that the door is closed.  All of this should occur within several seconds of flipping the sensor.

Also, did you get it paired correctly?  I seem to recall when I did mine it went through the whole nonce security class thingy.  I had to wait while it shared the security keys with Vera and ultimately configured the device.  I actually paired both of them before I mounted them but that doesn't mean that it can't be done with them installed.  It just means that you need to be patient and let Vera and the opener talk amongst themselves for a while as they get their secret codes worked out.  If you pair them by moving the Vera the lights will do all their flashing but it will still not be done.  This can take several minutes to work out.

All that being said I guess I don't really know what you mean by "acting up."  Is the door operating but reporting incorrectly?  Is it intermittent perhaps being affected by the cold?  Or is it just giving you the finger and doing nothing?  We did hit 35F last night and no problems to report with mine.

The sensor has to be on because it reports activity.  It just reports too much activity.

The doors operate perfectly.  Exactly as advertised.  The only issue is that it reports status changes when the doors haven't moved.  This can be several times an hour, several times a day or sometimes no falses for days on end.  There's really no rhyme or reason to it.  I do know that here in Colorado we've had some colder weather (our high yesterday was like 4 I think) and the issues seem to loosely coincide with the lower temps but still nothing definitive. 

At this point the temperature was about the only lead I had to work on but I still don't think that's the issue either.

Offline rstrouse

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@Ostrichshak -- So you never got this worked out?  Mine are just solid even though they are light bulbs in the interface.  I wonder, could it be vibration on the door from wind... etc.  If you shake the sensor it is mechanical inside as you can hear it making contact.  One other thing if you are on a steel door I wonder if it would make a difference to not mount it directly to the cold steel frame and mount it to a small block of wood instead.  Perhaps insulating it from the cold frame of the door may make the problems go away.

@Hottoy -- When you say similar problems do you mean that the door reports open intermittently when it is closed?
1xVera3 1.7.619, 4xLinear WT00Z, 3xLinear WS15Z, 1xLeviton VRCZ4, 10xCooper RF9540, 1xLeviton VRFI10, 1xLeviton VP00R, 2xLinear GD00Z-4, 1xGE/Jasco 45612, 1xGE/Jasco 45610,  4xGE/Jasco 45605, 2xYale YRD220-ZW-619, 1xCaddx NX584, Autelis Intellitouch Pool Control, OpenSprinkler

Offline Ostrichsak

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@Ostrichshak -- So you never got this worked out?  Mine are just solid even though they are light bulbs in the interface.  I wonder, could it be vibration on the door from wind... etc.  If you shake the sensor it is mechanical inside as you can hear it making contact.  One other thing if you are on a steel door I wonder if it would make a difference to not mount it directly to the cold steel frame and mount it to a small block of wood instead.  Perhaps insulating it from the cold frame of the door may make the problems go away.

No, not really.  It just sort of stopped happening as often and I also disabled the notifications associated with the doors opening as a band-aid fix so I didn't notice it anymore.  In reality, I really want those to report proper door status changes so that I can use the notifications as part of a security solution.  We do get high winds here but the doors don't move that much.  It's a newer built house so when the doors are closed they actually seal up against the door frame pretty solid.  I don't get too much deflection from the doors really but I will try to pay more attention to that as I never really thought to stare on it prior to this post.  I may try the block of wood thing to see if it does maybe insulate it more but it gets cold for pretty long periods here so if it is a temperature issue it will simply delay it slightly but won't fix it.  I have a nice new Reznor natural gas heater sitting in my garage that I've been meaning to install so maybe if I do that and keep the temps in there around 40+ deg maybe it will alleviate entirely.  Other than that the only way to know if it's temperature related will be to wait it out a few more months until it starts warming up again.

Again, I'm still not 100% this is the cause but I'm just thinking out loud in case others who have these are experiencing the same issue to see if we can narrow down the cause in an effort to correct the issue.  Also, for anyone that has these installed that has had 100% proper interaction please post that yours works fine so we can rule out firmware/communication type issues.

Offline rstrouse

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Another option that may work is to get some 1/2" polyolefin.  Typically, these are made into cheap plastic cutting boards that you can buy at your local kitchen supply store.  The material doesn't conduct heat, will not rot, and it is very easy to work with.

Btw I just installed a Calcana 10' gas radiant heater on my patio.  That thing just rocks!  They also make a line of garage heaters and if they are as effective as the patio heater out in the wind...wow!
1xVera3 1.7.619, 4xLinear WT00Z, 3xLinear WS15Z, 1xLeviton VRCZ4, 10xCooper RF9540, 1xLeviton VRFI10, 1xLeviton VP00R, 2xLinear GD00Z-4, 1xGE/Jasco 45612, 1xGE/Jasco 45610,  4xGE/Jasco 45605, 2xYale YRD220-ZW-619, 1xCaddx NX584, Autelis Intellitouch Pool Control, OpenSprinkler

Offline Ostrichsak

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Another option that may work is to get some 1/2" polyolefin.  Typically, these are made into cheap plastic cutting boards that you can buy at your local kitchen supply store.  The material doesn't conduct heat, will not rot, and it is very easy to work with.

Btw I just installed a Calcana 10' gas radiant heater on my patio.  That thing just rocks!  They also make a line of garage heaters and if they are as effective as the patio heater out in the wind...wow!

It may insulate it from the fast temperature fluctuations but if the problems are happening below freezing and we're spending weeks on end 30deg below that temperature it doesn't matter what I mount it to it's still going to be in that temperature zone where issues are present.

I know the heater I got is decent but they have a newer model out now that's even more efficient that I'm debating trying to get my hands on instead of installing this one.  It also has an induced draft exhaust would would make the install much easier as I can mount it to an outside wall and go right out sideways to vent.  Easy peasy.  The one I have now has to go up and will require going into the attic and cutting through the roof/shingles... blech.  You can guess why I haven't yet installed it.  ;-)

Offline rstrouse

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Way off topic but you should take a look at the Calcana's.  The are radiant not forced air so they don't suck up and spread the dust, they heat objects so when you open the door the heat isn't instantly lost, and they vent out the side so you don't go through the ceiling.
1xVera3 1.7.619, 4xLinear WT00Z, 3xLinear WS15Z, 1xLeviton VRCZ4, 10xCooper RF9540, 1xLeviton VRFI10, 1xLeviton VP00R, 2xLinear GD00Z-4, 1xGE/Jasco 45612, 1xGE/Jasco 45610,  4xGE/Jasco 45605, 2xYale YRD220-ZW-619, 1xCaddx NX584, Autelis Intellitouch Pool Control, OpenSprinkler

Offline Ostrichsak

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Way off topic but you should take a look at the Calcana's.  The are radiant not forced air so they don't suck up and spread the dust, they heat objects so when you open the door the heat isn't instantly lost, and they vent out the side so you don't go through the ceiling.

Thanks for the heads up but I just did a cursory search and don't think those are withing the budget.  I think I paid like sub-$500 for the new 75,000btu Reznor I have now.  It looks like the radiant heat ones are about 4x that cost and I researched them years ago and there was a reason I decided against that versus this standard forced air style but I forget what that is now.  Either way, I got a good deal on mine to where I may sell it and pay a couple hundred more to get the new more efficient version but I don't see myself investing much more than that at this point.

Offline Jamr

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My 2 cents.
I have several GD00Z's installed in -10F temps and they all are working as best as Vera let's them. Ver sees them as a light in UI7 so they are not programmed correctly to start with.