aeon labs energy monitor

[mikewop]

@Smocom Can you upload your spreadsheet as a Zip?

I need to limit the readings to only the whole house, and not show the 2 clamps (unless I'm missing key data).  How can I exclude the power clamps from the rerports?

Thanks!

There is an example on page 5 of the PDF attached by bucko (Reply # 230) that may do close to what you want, except I never could get the "A" and "V" reading to work, so the bits 2 and 3 don't work - this may be an issue in the Vera plugin not in the HEM itself)
If I read this correctly then:
- set parameter 101 = 3 (which will report W and kWh for the whole energy monitor only)
- set parameter 102 = 0 (or remove it)
- set parameter 103 = 0 (or remove it)

- set parameter 111 to 10  (if you want an update every 10 secs).

This assumes you are using the model G2 (which has no battery and the settings have changed a bit compared to the first generation model).

Hope that helps,
Mike

[AgileHumor]

I have a battery compartment (for AA or AAA batteries, I forget).  Does this mean I have a Gen 1?

Anyway to tell for sure?

Capabilities   210,28,0,4,33,1,L,R,B,RS,|49:2,50:2,96:2,112,114,128,133,134,
Version   3,2,78,3,64
Manufacturer   Aeon
Model   HEM

[mikewop]

There are two model numbers:

1st Gen:  DSB09104-ZWUS (has batteries and USB port)
   (http://www.smarthome.com/75505/Aeon-Labs-DSB09104-ZWUS-Z-Wave-Home-Energy-Monitor/p.aspx )

2nd Gen: DSB28-ZWUS (no battery compartment and no USB port)
(http://store.homeseer.com/store/Aeon-Labs-Aeotec-DSB28-ZWUS-Z-Wave-Home-Energy-Meter-2nd-Edition-P1643.aspx)

it looks like you have the first generation, the parameter settings will be slightly different since it has a battery.
From what I can tell from the settings you posted you already have the latest firmware (3.64) for the HEM, so that should be fine.

For the Gen 1 you could try this:

- set parameter 101 = 13 (send kWh, W, and battery level for the whole meter)
- set parameter 111 = 10 (for 10 second interval updates, set it to 60 if you want update every minute)

I had issues for the settings to "take" and had to have the VeraLite pretty close to the meter. But I have a G2, sop it might be different for yours.

PS: the "ZWUS" means it's a US model (908 MHz), if you have a European model it would be DSB28-ZWEU...

Mike

[AgileHumor]

Thank you much, I'll check out the pics to unit comparison when i get home.

[n0ir]

- set parameter 101 = 13 (send kWh, W, and battery level for the whole meter)

Earlier in the thread it was said parameter 101 should be set to 16140 (4 byte dec)? Is 13 correct?

[qwen3579]

I just received my G2 monitor and I'm a little confused by the directions. In the directions it specifically states that the direction of the clamps are opposite for L1 and L2. Question is, how can I tell what's L1 and what's L2 in my box? There are no labels (see attached).

[BulldogLowell]

They would be the 2 very large black wires into the top of the breaker stack.

The 3rd (white) one is your neutral

be careful.

[qwen3579]

They would be the 2 very large black wires into the top of the breaker stack.

The 3rd (white) one is your neutral

be careful.

Bulldog, I know the 2 wires I want. 

In the Aeotec documentation I received, it labels them L1 and L2. It then shows that clamp 1 goes a certain direction and clamp 2 the opposite direction of that. My question is - is there a difference between L1 and L2 and how do I identify which is which?

I highly suspect that both lines are exactly the same and it doesn't matter which one goes on which.

[BulldogLowell]

...it doesn't matter which one goes on which.

It shouldn't matter.  They are both 120V to Neutral and 240V to each other.

FYI, typically in a wiring diagram L1 is the Left Hand Side and L2 is Right Hand Side, but again, should not matter for your power meter.

[qwen3579]

...it doesn't matter which one goes on which.

It shouldn't matter.

FYI, typically in a wiring diagram L1 is the Left Hand Side and L2 is Right Hand Side, but again, should not matter for your power meter.

That's what I thought.

BTW... Here is the instruction manual I received with mine. It looks like an updated version as the others I've seen online do not reference the clamps going a certain direction (K > L). You can see how they specify L1 and L2 so I was concerned about which was which.  I'm using the US version.

http://www.vesternet.com/downloads/dl/file/id/192/z_wave_aeon_labs_clamp_power_meter_manual.pdf

[BulldogLowell]

yeah, they want to make sure you have the arrows in opposite directions relative to the breaker stack.  has to do with orienting the current transformers inside

[qwen3579]

yeah, they want to make sure you have the arrows in opposite directions relative to the breaker stack.  has to do with orienting the current transformers inside

Great, that's what I was thinking but I just wanted to be sure. Thanks for the help.

[qwen3579]

Has anyone actually been able to setup their G2 successfully? I've combed all the posts and I thought I had it set up correctly, but I get these spikes in my usage. I've read that others experienced this issue and tried what they have reported as a fix, but I still have them. They seem to always be around 10x actual. I'm using the 2 phase US version and it is firmware 3,3,67,1,17.

[bucko]

I also have spikes like this, but they are expected in my case. My water heater cycles about 2 times every 24 hrs. Otherwise, except for some noise, my data is clean.

I suggest you verify that these spikes are actually from a device or not first before you spend time with HEM configs.

[qwen3579]

I also have spikes like this, but they are expected in my case. My water heater cycles about 2 times every 24 hrs. Otherwise, except for some noise, my data is clean.

I suggest you verify that these spikes are actually from a device or not first before you spend time with HEM configs.

Thanks bucko. I actually based my config partly off input you gave in the forum. So my config looks okay then?

I know I'm going to have spikes like that sometimes, but those were happening in the middle of the night with everything static and no AC/heat. And I don't think my water heaters would be turning on that often.

I see some weird spikes during the day as well - 20K to 25K, that can't be normal, can it?