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Author Topic: Recommended switches/outlets for recessed LEDs & General Remodel Advice on equip  (Read 5860 times)

Offline Z-Waver

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Half a second.

Offline nutshellml

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Thanks, and then touching on the "wire 3 way switches or not" issue, basically I could have my electrician wire 3way switches then if I decide not to utilize the 3 way wiring I can just pop in the WT00Z-1, correct?

Offline Slartibartfast

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@nutshellml
Whilst considering all the z-wave kit, I think you should consider an RGBW controller and go for worktop and kickstrip lighting with RGBW LED strip. You get great lighting as well as mood lighting. Just look at some images on various lighting websites to see how god it looks. I wish I was redoing my kitchen so I could add this.
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Offline Z-Waver

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Thanks, and then touching on the "wire 3 way switches or not" issue, basically I could have my electrician wire 3way switches then if I decide not to utilize the 3 way wiring I can just pop in the WT00Z-1, correct?
Probably. The issue is that there are certain 3-way wiring scenarios that might prevent you from utilizing the WT00Z-1.

If your 3-way wiring looks like the attached diagram(fairly typical for modern wiring), then you'll have no problems.

Offline nutshellml

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Thanks!!! 

Re: kick strip lighting.  Great advice. Love the look.  Do you recommend any specific brands. I see some led that are very expensive. Others very low priced. 

Offline Slartibartfast

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I don't see any reason for very expensive but make sure you get maximum LED per metre and check output lumens.
You will need a DC power supply. If you want long runs, go 24V to reduce volt drop down the length but otherwise 12V is cheaper.
Parallel the strips but make sure DC supply is man enough for all. You can get away with one RGBW controller as long as max current is not exceeded.
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Offline nutshellml

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I don't see any reason for very expensive but make sure you get maximum LED per metre and check output lumens.
You will need a DC power supply. If you want long runs, go 24V to reduce volt drop down the length but otherwise 12V is cheaper.
Parallel the strips but make sure DC supply is man enough for all. You can get away with one RGBW controller as long as max current is not exceeded.

Thanks!  I'll do some research on the max length for the 12V run.  The longest "run" in my kitchen would be about 7'.  This looks great, i checked out a bunch of google images.  My question would be (to you) or for my own research or electrician familiar with LED strip lighting is when I have a bend and a break in the run for the stove do I need to have additional controllers for each run.  And when I do the island assuming that would also be on another run then all connected to ZWAVE switch/power and controlled together.  Will I be able to control color and dim setting from my Vera via the ZWAVE?
Also have to figure out where to hide the controller... I guess would be under the bottom drawer or pullout...

This place is about 40min drive from me: http://www.outwatercatalogs.com/lg_display.cfm/catalog/Master_Catalog_Vol_42/page/663 looks like they have good selection, wondering if i need there controller or I can use the Fibraro RGB controller.
« Last Edit: March 24, 2016, 09:04:51 pm by nutshellml »

Offline Slartibartfast

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To control from the z-wave you will need the Fibaro (other ways may be possible via plugin and other kit but Fibaro is straight forward.
You can control direct but the RGBW plugin gives a colour wheel control too.
7ft long should be fine at 12V
Corners can be done using corner pieces but watch total length.
Long runs can be fed from both ends simultaneously alowing double run length.
One Fibaro can run all lengths but there is a maximum current allowed. You can go higher but you need a DC repeater  (the Fibaro controls this and this feeds strips).
Basically, any length is possible based on DC supplies and individual strip lengths. It is even possible to use multiple reaters all controlled from the same Fibaro if it works out simpler for cabling.
For kick strip level, I recomend the outdoor type strips as it is more protected and easy to clean. Self adhesive is easy to fit. The RGBW wiring is flat cable and easy to run flat out of site.
One warning, I found that my LED strip had the Red and Green connecters cross labelled which gave me some strange effects until I worked it out. Others have had the same problem  so it may be common. Skill with a soldering iron helps with the connections to the strips.

I have three lengths under my eaves on the house. The DC supply feeds the Fibaro and I take three runs away from it. One to each strip. In my case the total load is easily within the capability of the Fibaro.Becasue the DC supply and Fibaro are in the attic, I use another z-wave control to turn on and off the DC but in a kitchen you will probably not want to do this.
I use a scene to turn on the DC supply and 10 seconds later turn on the strips. Another scene turns off the strips and 10 seconds later turns off the DC.
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Offline nutshellml

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Great info.. Thanks again for the suggestion.  Let me ask question, maybe obvious once I start looking to make the purchase, but once the LED strip ends and I need to wire say three separate strips (one from island, "L" run, and small other run) to the Fibaro, what method/power strip will I need if I put the Fibaro in the basement (udner the kitchen/cabinets).  about maybe 5-8' from each LED end to the Fibaro?

Offline Slartibartfast

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If I understand the question. You use RGBW extension cable (basically 5 core ribbon cable). In my case I soldered this directly onto the LED tape but it is possible to get cable with connectors which somehow clip onto the LED tape (I am not this works with the outdoor though). Then you connect all these to the Fibaro in Parallel.
Just a thought, make sure you get the correct polarity LED tape (I think it needs to be common positive but don't hold me to that), most tapes are the right sort but the other is around.
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Offline curiousB

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I would have electrician do the following; 1) neutral wire I every box. No switch legs without neutral. 2) ask for oversize boxes at switch locations. Some zwave switches are large and if you use a module like aeon you need more space. I prefer 4x4" metal boxes with a mud ring to get good volume for all the stuff in single location switches and receptacles. They make deeper boxes and deeper mud rings as well to give you even more room inside. 3) I would wire travelers to allow fallback to conventional mechanical switches. This is what the electrician best understands and then you (or a future owner) are grandfathered if they don't want zwave.


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VeraLite (1), Leviton VRI10-1LX (8 ), VP00R-1LZ (5), VRS15-1LX (1), Intermatic CA3500 (10), CA5100 (1), Aeon Labs DSC26103 (5), Foscam FI8918W (2) , FI9821W V2 (1), DLINK DCS-932L (2), DCS-930L (1), GE45604 (2), GE45603 (5), Honeywell RTH8580WF (2), HA-09WD (1), Kwikset 910TRL ZW (1), Aeon MMote (2)

Offline Slartibartfast

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I prefer 4x4" metal boxes with a mud ring to get good volume for all the stuff in single location switches and receptacles.
I prefer plastic back boxes. Less chance of blocking z-wave signal and better range. I only have two metal boxes and every one of my z-wave devices can  talk directly to vera. No need to rely on the mesh and faster communication.
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Offline curiousB

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I prefer 4x4" metal boxes with a mud ring to get good volume for all the stuff in single location switches and receptacles.
I prefer plastic back boxes. Less chance of blocking z-wave signal and better range. I only have two metal boxes and every one of my z-wave devices can  talk directly to vera. No need to rely on the mesh and faster communication.

I doubt metal box makes much difference when used with nmc (Romex). There is plenty of RF leakage on a metal box given the gaps. In any event the antenna tends to be oriented for radiation out the front plate anyway.

I live in IL where conduit in residential is code. I don't have any rf limitations with zwave.
VeraLite (1), Leviton VRI10-1LX (8 ), VP00R-1LZ (5), VRS15-1LX (1), Intermatic CA3500 (10), CA5100 (1), Aeon Labs DSC26103 (5), Foscam FI8918W (2) , FI9821W V2 (1), DLINK DCS-932L (2), DCS-930L (1), GE45604 (2), GE45603 (5), Honeywell RTH8580WF (2), HA-09WD (1), Kwikset 910TRL ZW (1), Aeon MMote (2)

Offline curiousB

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I prefer plastic back boxes. Less chance of blocking z-wave signal and better range. I only have two metal boxes and every one of my z-wave devices can  talk directly to vera. No need to rely on the mesh and faster communication.

I doubt metal box makes much difference when used with NMC (Romex). There is plenty of RF leakage on a metal box given the gaps. In any event the antenna tends to be oriented for radiation out the front plate anyway.

I live in IL where conduit in residential is code. I don't have any rf limitations with zwave.
VeraLite (1), Leviton VRI10-1LX (8 ), VP00R-1LZ (5), VRS15-1LX (1), Intermatic CA3500 (10), CA5100 (1), Aeon Labs DSC26103 (5), Foscam FI8918W (2) , FI9821W V2 (1), DLINK DCS-932L (2), DCS-930L (1), GE45604 (2), GE45603 (5), Honeywell RTH8580WF (2), HA-09WD (1), Kwikset 910TRL ZW (1), Aeon MMote (2)

Offline curiousB

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I doubt metal box makes much difference when used with NMC (Romex). There is plenty of RF leakage on a metal box given the gaps. In any event the antenna tends to be oriented for radiation out the front plate anyway.

I live in IL where conduit for residential is code. I don't have any rf limitations with zwave.
VeraLite (1), Leviton VRI10-1LX (8 ), VP00R-1LZ (5), VRS15-1LX (1), Intermatic CA3500 (10), CA5100 (1), Aeon Labs DSC26103 (5), Foscam FI8918W (2) , FI9821W V2 (1), DLINK DCS-932L (2), DCS-930L (1), GE45604 (2), GE45603 (5), Honeywell RTH8580WF (2), HA-09WD (1), Kwikset 910TRL ZW (1), Aeon MMote (2)