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Author Topic: GE / Jasco 3-Way Switch 45613 working for you?  (Read 10638 times)

Offline JamesM

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GE / Jasco 3-Way Switch 45613 working for you?
« on: February 28, 2011, 06:14:08 pm »
After 2 straight weeks and numerous calls into Jasco tech support, I still cannot seem to get these switches to work. I have read multiple threads where some seem to have success but most not.

I think we should start a master thread showing successful installations for others to reference (like myself).

In my case, I live in a relatively new home (2007) and have the following 4 wire 3 way switch (see attached) at each end of the light.   


Has anyone had any luck with this arrangement?

*Note: I do not have a voltage meter but tried installing both the Main and Aux. in both locations.

I owe whomever figures this out a few beers / drinks!
Vera2- UI4 1.1.1350 / 3.20 | SQ Blaster | 5 ICS Android Tablets - AutHomation | 28x GE 45606 switches  | 2x LFM-20 (Fireplace;Garage Door) | 1x hardwired Everspring SM103-1 |3 NorthQ, 1 Foscam IP cameras | Kwikset Locks | ..Not enough time to program  :'(

Offline dchoe

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Re: GE / Jasco 3-Way Switch 45613 working for you?
« Reply #1 on: February 28, 2011, 06:36:51 pm »
i finally gave up and hired an electrician to install all the 3-way/4-way switches.  couple of the problems i ran into were defective switches and there's no way i would've figured it out.  one of my master had a bad connection on the traveler and two of my slaves had bad connections on the neutral (with one being a stripped screw).

Offline mitch672

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Re: GE / Jasco 3-Way Switch 45613 working for you?
« Reply #2 on: February 28, 2011, 10:11:32 pm »
After 2 straight weeks and numerous calls into Jasco tech support, I still cannot seem to get these switches to work. I have read multiple threads where some seem to have success but most not.

I think we should start a master thread showing successful installations for others to reference (like myself).

In my case, I live in a relatively new home (2007) and have the following 4 wire 3 way switch (see attached) at each end of the light.   


Has anyone had any luck with this arrangement?

*Note: I do not have a voltage meter but tried installing both the Main and Aux. in both locations.

I owe whomever figures this out a few beers / drinks!


I had a hallway switch that looked like that, all 3 wires from the 14-3 cable where connected to the 3-way, which then ran to another box.  In the other box, the hot was tied to the white (going to the switch in your picture), and the load was connected to the 3 way switch in the box.  2 of the other wires where travellers.

You are going to have to get your self a voltage tester, so you can determine where the hot is, and the load wire.  they both will be in the "other box", where that 3 wire runs to.

You then unwire the whole mess, and connect the white wire to the white/red stripe, use the red to connect to the "yellow" wire in the AUX switch, and of course connect the ground.  in the other location, connect the white to neutral, connect the blue wire to the "load" (which will be a black wire going to the fixture/lamp), and connect the black from the switch to the line (120V), and of course you need to connect the neutral and ground as well, and then connect the red wire to the yellow at the main switch.

You really need to identify the hot, and the load, otherwise it will never work.
« Last Edit: February 28, 2011, 10:13:24 pm by mitch672 »

Offline oTi@

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Re: GE / Jasco 3-Way Switch 45613 working for you?
« Reply #3 on: February 28, 2011, 11:21:57 pm »
... I [...] have the following 4 wire 3 way switch (see attached) at each end of the light.   
White wire should have been taped/marked. Anyway, so the switch at the other end looks exactly like this; nothing else; just 3 wires and ground?

If so, then the power feed (i.e. 2 wires and ground) into this network is probably at your light and the neutral goes straight to your light and not to your switches.

It won't work. You said you tried, but how did you do that, because you would be 1 wire short on the primary switch.
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Offline raskell

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Re: GE / Jasco 3-Way Switch 45613 working for you?
« Reply #4 on: March 01, 2011, 09:15:33 am »
There is no direct answer for your request based on one photo.   I had one of these and tried everything to get it to work.  I even hired an electrician to come in and try it, to no avail. 

I was able to get the circuit to work if I ran an independent traveller from the main switch to the slave.  I originally set up the switches on my work bench where everything was in close proximity (very short wire runs) and it all made sense and worked perfectly.  When I tried to recreate the same circuit using the existing runs in my finished garage, forget it.  Turns out after talking to JASCO tech support, they recommend no more than 20' of line between the primary and slave.  By the time you go up and down the wall, that leaves about 8' of separation between the swithes which isn't practical.

I had success by stringing a 50' coil of home wire across the garage and using one of the singles as a traveller.  It worked perfectly but I was not able or willing to have an independent wire pulled.  In the end, it seems that this GE switch suffes from low voltage noise corruption on the traveller.  Several others have reported half brightness, flickering, and full brightness only when holding the slave on manually.  I reproduced all of these conditions. 

In the end, I ditched the 3-way dimmer set and went with a on/off set and it worked perfectly.
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Offline shady

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Re: GE / Jasco 3-Way Switch 45613 working for you?
« Reply #5 on: March 02, 2011, 03:29:20 pm »
I have very similar wiring to what is pictured and mine works fine, this is a common way of wiring a 3-Way.  Be aware that a good number of "electricians" still don't really understand how a 3-Way works (due to the many ways of wiring them), so choose wisely (have them draw you a diagram).  As @mitch672 said, on one side (not pictured)you should have power (in from circuit), load (out to light), the neutral that goes with the power circuit (same romex), travelers (red/black) and ground, this will be where the Master goes.  On the side pictured you have just a 14-3 coming in with two travelers (red/black) a white (used to bring the load/light over to the other 3-way) and ground, this is where your slave goes.  This is what I know to be called a California 3-Way (according to the internet it seems there are different versions of what a Cali 3-Way is, but the version you have is not illegal and has passed inspected many times)

Searching here there is no exact diagram of what you have, with power and load on one side and just a 3-wire on the other:  http://www.act-remote.com/PCC/kingery06.htm

It may be possible that you have power running to the light and not the switch location where the master would go.  If so, it can still be wired to work.  In that case Fig 9 is your arrangement on the above link.  

So after you test and identify all of your wires, and verify the arrangement I described, you'll wire your slave switch to the box with the lone 3-wire.  Connect the red wire to the slave's yellow wire, the black to black and ground to ground (Wirenut off the white wire from the 3-wire in both boxes).  Screw the slave in the wall, because you're done on that side.  Now on the master side connect the red traveler (from 3-wire going out to the slave location) to the Master's yellow, connect the black traveler (from the same 3-wire) and the black wire from the Master to the power wire the old 3-way used, connect the Master's neutral wire to the same neutral wire-nutted bundle that has the neutral from the power wire that the old 3-way used (follow the power wire back to a romex coming in or a bundle of wire-nutted hots).  If the hot goes back to a bundle of hots, and that Master switch box only has one bundle of hots and one bundle of neutrals (typical), then you just tie the neutrals and hots to those bundles (one circuit in that box).   So black from the traveler (slave switch's power) and black and white from the Master switch just wire to their matching colored wirenut bundle.  The neutral from the switch leg going up to the light (14-2) should be tied into this same white bundle and the black wire going to the light wires to the blue load wire from the Master switch.  I decided to attach a picture to avoid confusion.  If you see anything that doesn't look right, feel free to ask questions and post more pictures.
« Last Edit: March 02, 2011, 05:13:49 pm by shady »
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Offline aa6vh

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Re: GE / Jasco 3-Way Switch 45613 working for you?
« Reply #6 on: March 02, 2011, 04:54:26 pm »
I am a little confused by the drawing. You show both the hot lead and the neutral lead going to the slave switch, plus the traveller. My slave switch only requires two wires, one travelar and one connection to netural (although the instructions say to use hot, others here have suggested using neutral instead).

Comments?

Offline shady

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Re: GE / Jasco 3-Way Switch 45613 working for you?
« Reply #7 on: March 02, 2011, 05:08:32 pm »
I am a little confused by the drawing. You show both the hot lead and the neutral lead going to the slave switch, plus the traveller. My slave switch only requires two wires, one travelar and one connection to netural (although the instructions say to use hot, others here have suggested using neutral instead).

Comments?
Thank you for catching that, I was going from memory and it looks like the Slave doesn't require a neutral.  I'll change the drawing and post.  Thanks again. 
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Offline oTi@

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Re: GE / Jasco 3-Way Switch 45613 working for you?
« Reply #8 on: March 02, 2011, 05:10:42 pm »
I am a little confused by the drawing. You show both the hot lead and the neutral lead going to the slave switch, plus the traveller. My slave switch only requires two wires, one travelar and one connection to netural (although the instructions say to use hot, others here have suggested using neutral instead).

Comments?
Yeah, that's odd; the GE auxiliary switch only has the yellow signal wire and the red/white wire for hot or neutral. If you look at the markings on the aux. switch itself you will see that the red/white wire is marked line or neutral.

I think we need to wait for JamesM to clarify what his set up looks like though. In my earlier post I assumed both sides are exactly equal as he seemed to indicate. That would suggest he only has a neutral at the light. It won't work in that case, because he's short a wire on the primary switch side.
Dezwaved at the moment...

Offline aa6vh

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Re: GE / Jasco 3-Way Switch 45613 working for you?
« Reply #9 on: March 02, 2011, 05:31:01 pm »
Most 3 way (mechanical) light switches I have seen will have the line in (hot) on one switch, and the load line on the other switch. If the hot line and load line were lead to the one switch box, you would then have to string 5 wires to the remote mechanical switch: 1 always hot, two travellar wires, 1 ground, and 1 neutral (neutral could be eliminated as it would not be required for mechanical switches). The mechanical switch in the gang box with both hot and load would not be connected to the hot lead, as it gets it's hot from one of the two travellers.

Since there are not that many wires leading between switches, I have to assume that it is wired the standard way, with line (hot) on one switch, and load at the other switch, with the two travellers going between the two switches (usually black and red), plus neutral and ground. The challenge here is to determine which switch has the load wire, and which switch has the hot wire. You can then proceed from there.

Offline shady

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Re: GE / Jasco 3-Way Switch 45613 working for you?
« Reply #10 on: March 02, 2011, 05:31:33 pm »
I think we need to wait for JamesM to clarify what his set up looks like though. In my earlier post I assumed both sides are exactly equal as he seemed to indicate. That would suggest he only has a neutral at the light. It won't work in that case, because he's short a wire on the primary switch side.

Yes it is probably best for him to take all of the switches out of each box and take pictures of each.  Hopefully he doesn't have power run to the light (cold switched), but run to the switch.  

I wired mine as shown in the instructions with the hot going to the white/red on the slave.  It works great, with no flickering or other issues.  It is in a hall way probably 12ft apart with roughly 20' of wire in between them.

Edit:
If the hot line and load line were lead to the one switch box, you would then have to string 5 wires to the remote mechanical switch

Since there are not that many wires leading between switches, I have to assume that it is wired the standard way, with line (hot) on one switch, and load at the other switch, with the two travellers going between the two switches (usually black and red), plus neutral and ground.

Actually you only need four wires going to the remote mechanical switch (no neutral required) as shown in his posted picture showing a 14-3 (3-Conductors or 4-wires).  His wiring is most likely wired with hot and load on the same side, using one of the extra wires in the 14-3 travelers to carry the load wire over to the otherside so you essentially end up with the standard 3-way config.  We should see pictures of both sides to be sure that power isn't wired to the light instead(cold switched).
« Last Edit: March 02, 2011, 05:40:39 pm by shady »
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Offline aa6vh

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Re: GE / Jasco 3-Way Switch 45613 working for you?
« Reply #11 on: March 02, 2011, 05:56:05 pm »
So what I beleive we are both saying is that the four wires going between switches could be either: 2 travellers, a neutral, and a ground, or 1 hot, two travellers, and ground. At this point I would want to get out the trusty test equipment to determine which it is.

Offline shady

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Re: GE / Jasco 3-Way Switch 45613 working for you?
« Reply #12 on: March 02, 2011, 06:14:44 pm »
So what I beleive we are both saying is that the four wires going between switches could be either: 2 travellers, a neutral, and a ground, or 1 hot, two travellers, and ground. At this point I would want to get out the trusty test equipment to determine which it is.

Yes, and in his setup there would be no need for a neutral on the Slave side.  The neutral for the light stays on the Master side.  Yes, I agree test everything and use a continuity meter to test romex pairs so you are positive the wires end up where you thought they did.
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Offline oTi@

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Re: GE / Jasco 3-Way Switch 45613 working for you?
« Reply #13 on: March 02, 2011, 06:19:37 pm »
The picture shown has 3 wires + ground. By definition this is 2 travellers and 1 common. The common is either hot or load. There is no neutral in that box. If the other switch looks exactly like this, then it won't work with the GE kit. If he has power coming in on the other box, it can probably be made to work.
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Offline JamesM

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Re: GE / Jasco 3-Way Switch 45613 working for you?
« Reply #14 on: March 14, 2011, 03:17:36 pm »
Hi Everyone! I never received an email telling me there were responses to my post  :-[ :-\

Let me read through tonight to catch up and figure out the best course of action.
Vera2- UI4 1.1.1350 / 3.20 | SQ Blaster | 5 ICS Android Tablets - AutHomation | 28x GE 45606 switches  | 2x LFM-20 (Fireplace;Garage Door) | 1x hardwired Everspring SM103-1 |3 NorthQ, 1 Foscam IP cameras | Kwikset Locks | ..Not enough time to program  :'(