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Author Topic: [Pictures] Wiring of my old Switches, need suitable Z-Wave Switches  (Read 14273 times)

Offline Exorcist

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Re: [Pictures] Wiring of my old Switches, need suitable Z-Wave Switches
« Reply #15 on: March 13, 2012, 10:34:07 am »
Sorry to bump this thread again. Need help in getting up the wires on the switches, as they are all dangling out in the open risking others an electric shock. :(

Offline Da_JoJo

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Re: [Pictures] Wiring of my old Switches, need suitable Z-Wave Switches
« Reply #16 on: March 13, 2012, 10:51:51 am »
never seen this kinda wiring but it seems traveler goes on traveler and the neutral goes on whatever is live-wire from the  main electricity box.
its like  this :  neutral (blue in europe, 0 volt wire) goes to the light and the life (brown wire, +220volt) goes to the input of the switch and the black (+220v switched) goes to the light.
this device should go between the live wire
edit: looks like things are reversed over there in you homeland and the neutral is being the wire that is switched.
so i guess load should go on neutral ?
« Last Edit: March 13, 2012, 10:56:06 am by Da_JoJo »
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Offline oTi@

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Re: [Pictures] Wiring of my old Switches, need suitable Z-Wave Switches
« Reply #17 on: March 13, 2012, 11:34:48 am »
Need help in getting up the wires on the switches,[...]
Can you describe your current wiring; a diagram is best. Besides the connection between the boxes, it is important to know where the light is connected and where power is coming in.

Do you currently have the GE primary hooked-up, together with the Lutron aux switch? The Lutron is a traditional switch, right?
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Offline Exorcist

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Re: [Pictures] Wiring of my old Switches, need suitable Z-Wave Switches
« Reply #18 on: March 13, 2012, 11:58:51 am »
Need help in getting up the wires on the switches,[...]
Can you describe your current wiring; a diagram is best. Besides the connection between the boxes, it is important to know where the light is connected and where power is coming in.

Do you currently have the GE primary hooked-up, together with the Lutron aux switch? The Lutron is a traditional switch, right?

Thanks for your reply.

Reposting the thread i posted yesterday, pictures with the wiring.

-----------------------

I am trying to install the zwave GE 3 Way switch in my hallway.
Replacing my old lutron dimmer switches with these.

I have managed to wire the main GE 3-way switch. However confused with the wiring of GE auxiliary switch.
The existing Lutron auxiliary switch has three wires attached to it.
And the GE-Auxiliary switch only has two connection options.

Attaching images.

GE 3 way switch wiring.
http://i44.tinypic.com/bfl7ao.jpg

Existing lutron auxiliary switch wiring.
http://i43.tinypic.com/2n6hjpi.jpg

GE Auxiliary switch that needs to be wired.
http://i42.tinypic.com/v2s4ec.jpg

Looking at the second image, there are three wires on the old switch, if i have to wire these on the ge auxiliary that is the third image which has only two screws, what should be my approach?

Offline oTi@

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Re: [Pictures] Wiring of my old Switches, need suitable Z-Wave Switches
« Reply #19 on: March 13, 2012, 12:21:21 pm »
Reposting the thread i posted yesterday, pictures with the wiring.
Right; that's what I had looked at. But the point was that there is not enough information there. You'll have to describe how you believe things are currently wired, including where the power is coming in, and where the light is connected. And there were some additional questions probing for that a different way.

Otherwise, things will be guess work: the black is not part of a cable with say a white / neutral? The two blues are going to the other switch? The yellow is connected to the light? Switching the aux, still switches the light? No neutral in the aux box (either)?


« Last Edit: March 13, 2012, 12:24:08 pm by oTi@ »
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Offline silvereagle2208

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Re: [Pictures] Wiring of my old Switches, need suitable Z-Wave Switches
« Reply #20 on: March 13, 2012, 02:38:28 pm »
I have seen this type of wiring before.  It is a standard way to connect Z-wave switches in a 3-way configuration when you have loads that are not incandescent based.  You need to be very careful with this type wiring because it is very different from a standard 3-way (your existing Lutron switch).   With a standard 3-way, you have two identical switches.  One switch connects to line.  The other switch connects to load.  Between the two switches, two travelers are connected - one of which is always hot.   The GE switch works differently.   The GE main switch is doing all the work.  It has connections to line, load, neutral, and the auxiliary switch through a "traveler".  This traveler is a different sort of traveler than the type used in a standard 3-way.  In the GE configuration you have, this wire probably does not carry a voltage.  The auxiliary switch merely sends a "sensor" signal to the main switch via the traveler wire to turn it on or off.

I have spent a great deal of time trying to get  Z-wave 3-way switches to work in circuits that were previously wired for standard 3-way.  Up until now,  I was very frustrated because I did not see a way to make it work.  However,  after looking at your GE switches I see an possible way to make it work as long as you can somehow get a neutral to the main GE Z-wave switch.  If you can provide a neutral to the main Z-wave switch, you will be able to power the GE main switch and you will have three wires that run from the main switch to the auxiliary switch.  One of these wires could be used to run a neutral line between the main and auxiliary switches.  The second line would serve as the "traveler" between the switches.   The third wire would run from the load connection on the main GE switch to the load wire in the auxiliary switch box.

If you are going to continue to use incandescent loads in this circuit, I would not use this type of switch.  If you want to use a dimmer switch in an incandescent circuit, I would use a Leviton VRI06-1L combined with a VP00R-10 (No LED) Companion dimming switch.  They will simply replace your existing switches.   If you want a non-dimming switch for an incandescent circuit, then you can use a Leviton VRS05-1L.

This URL will lead you to a spec sheet download for Leviton Visia RF + (Z-wave) switches.  It also contains wiring diagrams for the switches:
http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibcGetAttachment.jsp?cItemId=JpHfVafhIIl5yOOTx6XhDg&label=IBE&appName=IBE&minisite=10251

If you cannot run a neutral to the switch box where you want to install the GE main Z-wave switch and you want to use only fluorescent or LED lamps in the circuit, then I believe that your current GE switch will not work.    Z-wave switches need to have power in order to operate.  If you have neither a neutral wire or an incandescent light in the circuit (to provides a leakage current), then this GE switch will not function.

Also please note, that even if you can provide a neutral to the GE main switch, the wiring is still very tricky because you have to modify the three wires that run between the main and auxiliary switches for purposes for which they were not originally designed.  So if you are not sure of what you are doing, you might want to hire an electrician to do the work for you.

I hope this information proves helpful.  Good luck.

Offline silvereagle2208

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Sorry I goofed - You have only two wires available between your switches.
« Reply #21 on: March 13, 2012, 04:38:49 pm »
Sorry I goofed.  In reality, you have only two wires between your two switches in a standard 3-way circuit: the two travelers.  So unless you have (or can run) a third wire between the two switches and can also run a neutral to the GE main switch, you will not be able to use your existing GE switches.

That is why trying to replace a standard 3-way circuit has been so frustrating for me.  I am always find myself one wire short.

The solution I proposed for a Z-wave circuit with incandescent lighting is correct.   My solution for your GE switches is also correct, but it requires two more wires than you presently have.

Offline Da_JoJo

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Re: [Pictures] Wiring of my old Switches, need suitable Z-Wave Switches
« Reply #22 on: March 13, 2012, 06:41:39 pm »
lemme see..
load = lamp
line = life wire
neutral = earth
traveller= the point to where the line get switched to
i used to be proffesional electrician , but i have difficulties understanding the terms used for american power system. it usse 120v AC with both sides 120v  instead of the dutch version of 220v one side and 0 on other side. if you understand what i mean lol
anyways since it looks like a . what we call over here, hotel-switch.  does it have another switch on a another wall that switches the same light ?  if so you need to be on the other switch and attache the module there and leave this one like it is. if it is the only switch for the light it is incorrectly wired . having a switch with neutral and traveler is also missing a life wire
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